West Papua is the little-visited western half of the huge island of New Guinea. It is host to an astonishing degree of biological and ecological richness with habitats ranging from steamy lowland swamp forests to the alpine grassland of the mighty Snow Mountains, the highest peaks between the Himalaya and the Andes. In addition, it is still covered by some of the largest areas of original, intact, forest on earth and yet very few birders have so far had the opportunity to appreciate its diversity.
We begin our adventure in Geelvink Bay; On Biak all of the endemic species can still be found in the secondary and selectively logged forest, including Geelvink Pygmy Parrot, Biak Red Lory, Biak Scops Owl and the stunning Biak Paradise-kingfisher. We also hope to take a boat across to Numfor island for the seldom-seem Numfor Paradise-kingfisher. In a dramatic change of scenery we then head into the heart of the island of new guinea, where amid the stunning scenery of the Snow Mountains we will search a variety of habitats from moss-laden montane forest to alpine grasslands in search of some amazing birds; the spectacular MacGregor’s Honeyeater, Snow Mountain Quail, Snow Mountain Mannikin, Mountain Firetail, Short-bearded Melidectes, Lorentz’s Whistler, Lesser Melampitta, Salvadori’s Teal, New Guinea Woodcock, Archbold’s Nightjar, Greater Ground Robin and Splendid Astrapia.
Next stop is the hot and steamy lowland rainforest in the shadow of the Cyclops Mountains where delights such as Salvadori’s Fig Parrot and Buff-faced Pygmy Parrot await, and our bird-of-paradise tally is boosted by Pale-billed Sicklebill, Twelve-wired, Lesser and King Birds-of-paradise. Our next destination is the montane forests of the little-known Arfak Mountains where wonders such as displaying Western Parotia, Magnificent Bird-of-paradise, Vogelkop Bowerbird, Black-billed Sicklebill, Arfak Astrapia and Long-tailed Paradigalla are just a few of a mouth-watering list of targets.
We continue near Sorong at the western tip of the Vogelkop Peninsula from where we head out to the island of Waigeo to finish in style as we search of Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise, surely one of the most stunning of the family. Red Bird-of-paradise is also found only here and a few neighbouring islands and we should also see Raja Ampat Pitohui, and have a chance to spot the shy Western Crowned Pigeon. West Papua is tougher than most of our tours but conditions are much more comfortable than previously and it does offer some of the most exciting birding, fascinating travel and incredible experiences for the adventurous birder.
Day 1:
The tour begins with morning arrivals into the island of Biak in Geelvink bay off the north cost of West Papua. In the afternoon we will begin our birding and will soon find some of the commoner island endemics. Night in Biak.
Day 2:
Weather-permitting we travel by boat to the island of Numfor, southwest of Biak in Geelvink Bay. Leaving at dawn we should arrive by late morning, in time to see our main targets; the fabulous endemic Numfor Paradise Kingfisher, which is quite common on the island, and the scarce Numfor Leaf Warbler. Overnight in a basic guesthouse on Numfor
Day 3:
We spend a few more hours birding on Numfor where there are several tricky species shared with Biak including Biak Scrubfowl, Geelvink Imperial Pigeon and Geelvink Pygmy Parrot. By mid-morning we start the return journey to Biak. Night in Biak.
Day 4:
Full day on Biak searching for any endemics not already seen on Numfor, most of which can still be found in areas of good secondary or selectively logged forest near the main town. This rarely-visited island holds several special species, some of which are widespread across the islands in Geelvink Bay but others are restricted to Biak and neighbouring Supiori and it is these endemics on which we will concentrate, including the endemic Biak Paradise Kingfisher which is still pleasingly common and conspicuous. In more open areas we will look for Claret-breasted and Geelvink Fruit Doves and Geelvink Imperial Pigeon which are vocal and often perch conspicuously. Secondary growth is also the favoured habitat of the endemic Long-tailed Starling, Biak Triller, Biak Gerygone, and Biak White-eye, while overhead Biak Red Lory frequently flash past. Most other endemics and specialties are best searched for in the forest and include the shy Biak Megapode, skulking Biak Coucal, Biak Fantail, Biak Whistler, Biak Pitta, and the inconspicuous Biak Leaf Warbler. Feeding flocks in the forest provide much excitement and are often joined by some of our targets; Geelvink Pygmy Parrot, Golden Monarch, Biak Black Flycatcher, and the rare orange-and-black Biak Monarch. In the evenings we will try to spotlight the endemicBiak Scops Owl which is often tricky to see. Night in Biak.
Day 5:
This morning we fly to Sentani before continuing on the short but spectacular flight to Wamena in the Grand Baliem Valley, spending any remaining daylights exploring the cultivated valley closer to Wamena where we hope to find Ornate Melidectes, the localised Black-breasted Munia, and the conspicuous Greater Lophorina (Superb Bird-of-paradise) which can even be found in close proximity to the villages. We will try to find the giulianettii IslandLeaf Warbler as a future split and Baliem Whistler which is already regarded as a full species. Night in Wamena.
Days 6-8:
Basing ourselves in a comfortable hotel in Wamena we will make daily forays in 4WD vehicles for the journey higher into the fabled Snow Mountains from the Grand Baliem Valley. The journey is along winding roads, through forests where we will make several birding stops in search of our first specialties. During our stay we will explore a variety of habitats in the area. In the high-altitude grasslands close to Lake Habbema we will bird with the mighty Mount Trikora (4700m) as a constant backdrop. Star bird of this alpine plateau is the striking MacGregor’s Honeyeater which although shy, frequently betray their presence with loud whooshing sounds as they fly along the hillsides with orange primary patches conspicuous. DNA studies have shown this amazing bird to be a honeyeater rather than a bird-of-paradise but this makes it no less special. Other special birds in this area include Snow Mountain Quail that are often flushed from the grasslands, Snow Mountain Mannikin, Mountain Firetail, Alpine Pipit and Papuan Harrier favouring the more open areas. Sooty and Short-bearded Melidectes, Orange-cheeked Honeyeaters, Snow Mountain Tiger Parrot and Lorentz’s Whistlers prefer the alpine shrubbery, while several pairs of Salvadori’s Teal plus Spotless Crake inhabit the lake and its fringes. Steep trails down into the magical mossy forests hold a new suite of birds; ground-dwellers here include Chestnut Forest Rail, New Guinea Logrunner, shy red-eyed Lesser Melampitta and with a big dose of luck, the rare Greater Ground Robin in the tree-line forest above the altitude of the commoner Lesser Ground Robin. Species like Belford’sMelidectes, Black-throated, Common Smoky Honeyeaters, and Grey-streaked arecommon, and other potential species include Splendid Astrapia, BrownSicklebill, Black Sittella, Crested Berrypecker, Rufous-naped Bellbird, PapuanTreecreeper, Rufous-throated Bronze Cuckoo, Brehm’s and Modest Tiger Parrots, gorgeousPlum-faced Lorikeets and many more. Nights in Wamena.
Day 9:
This morning we fly back to Sentani before continuing to the lowland forests of Nimbokrang (65km, 1.5 hr) at the base of the imposing Cyclops Mountains where we will be based for the next three nights at a comfortable ecolodge. Night in Nimbokrang.
Day 10-11:
The flat alluvial rainforests of Nimbokrang have suffered from logging but tracts of good secondary and selectively logged forest remain. The birding in these swamp forests is by no means easy but the rewards are great. Several species of bird-of-paradise can be found here, and we will be hoping to find Pale-billed Sicklebill and Magnificent Riflebird, and to witness the amazing displays of Twelve-wired, Lesser and King Birds-of-paradise. The seemingly endless list of possible species here includes some true specialties of the area and thus we will target Salvadori’s Fig-Parrot, Brown and Black-capped Lories, Lowland Peltops, Buff-faced Pygmy Parrot, Blue Jewel Babbler, Tan-capped Catbird, Victoria Crowned Pigeon, and Jobi Manucode. Nights in Nimbokrang.
Days 12:
After a final day of birding in these tropical lowland forests we will return to Sentani for an overnight stay.
Day 13:
This morning we start with a visit to the grasslands in the shadow of the Cyclops Mountains, where it is often possible to find Fawn-breasted Bowerbird, Grand, Chestnut-breasted and Hooded Mannikins. We then fly to Manokwari on the west shore of Geelvink Bay, and from here we drive up into the Arfak Mountains, to our base, situated at 1600m. Over the coming days we will split our time between the lower levels of the forest and the higher reaches of the montane forest, each area with its own distinct avifauna and special birds. Most of our eight nights here will be spent in the basic guesthouses in Mingre Village but two nights will be spent at a basic camp higher up the mountains to search for higher altitude specialities.
Days 14-20:
In these remote mountains we will be searching for many special montane birds which include some of New Guinea’s most desirable yet little-known birds.Perhaps the highlight of our stay here will be the chance to visit the dancing ground of the Western Parotia. Hides have been built overlooking some of these display areas and the chance to watch the extravagant ‘ballerina dance’ of these extraordinary birds at point-blank range is truly a mind-blowing experience. Magnificent Birds-of-Paradise and Vogelkop Lophorina can likewise be enjoyed on their display areas and other highly desirable birds here include the elusive Black-billed Sicklebill, the virtually unknown Long-tailed Paradigalla and the fascinating Vogelkop Bowerbird which not only builds an impressive bower but is also a skilled mimic, imitating the songs of many other species. Our local Papuan guides are incredibly skilled at finding these birds and often treat us to daytime views of bizarre-looking Feline and Mountain Owlet Nightjars. At higher altitudes give the possibility of the likes of Mottled Berryhunter, Black Sicklebills, Orange-crowned Fairy-wren, and hopefully the rare Arfak Astrapia. Nights in Mingrei Guesthouses or camping at higher altitudes.
Day 21:
After a final morning in the Arfak Mountains we return to Manokwari to fly to Sorong hopefully arriving in time to explore areas close to the city which host specialities like Blue-black Kingfisher, Black Thicket-Fantail, and Collared Imperial Pigeon. Night in Sorong.
Day 22:
Morning fast ferry to Waisai, Waigeo. Afternoon boat trip to a small offshore island which hosts several ‘supertramp’ species like Spice Imperial Pigeon, Olive Honeyeater, Arafura Fantail, and Island Whistler as well as being a good location for Violet-necked Lory. Night in Waisai.
Day 23-24:
The island of Waigeo holds several species absent from the mainland and these will form our focus here. Our primary target is to find the quite astounding Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise, a bird frequently cited as one of the most beautiful in the world. Using specially constructed hides we will be able to observe the birds as they visit their display grounds completely oblivious to our admiring eyes. With good fortune we will see the male in full action – calling and displaying vigorously to any females which enter his display arena. Other birds present include Red Bird-of-Paradise, Raja Ampat Pitohui, and the shy Western Crowned Pigeon. Nights in Waisai.
Day 25:
Morning fast ferry to Sorong from where we drive out and trek into Malagufuk, a remote village which is surrounded by tall forest, and which has some of the finest lowland birding in West Papua. Two nights in basic guesthouses in Malagufuk Village.
Days 26-27:
Malagufuk will be our base for two days exploring this exciting area. Local specialities like Black Lory and Red-breasted Paradise Kingfisher are both present, while other exciting possibilities include Red-billed Brushturkey, Pheasant Pigeon, Western Crowned Pigeon, Thick-billed Ground Pigeon, Tawny Straightbill, Magnificent Riflebird, and possibly even Northern Cassowary. Night-birds known to occur include Wallace’s Owlet Nightjar, Papuan Nightjar, and Papuan Hawk Owl. On theafternoon of day 27, we walk back out from Malagufuk to the main road and return to Sorong for a final overnight stay.
Day 28:
Tour ends this morning with departures from Sorong.
Deposit: £ 1000 or $ 1,400
Single room supplement: £TBC / $ 720
Maximum group size: 7
Tour cost includes: all accommodation, main meals, drinking water, internal flights (as stated in itinerary), overland transport, tips to local drivers and guides, travel permits, entrance fees, and guide fees.
Tour cost excludes: International / domestic flights and departure taxes to and from West Papua (tour starts in Biak and ends in Sorong), visa, travel insurance, tips to tour leaders, laundry, drinks and other items of a personal nature.
Accommodation: basic to comfortable twin-bed, and single rooms, all with private facilities everywhere except; Numfor (1 night) and Arfak Mountains (5 nights). Two nights in the Arfak Mountains will be spend in a well-constructed camp with shared toilet facilities. Two nights at Malagufuk will be spent in basic shared accommodation with shared facilities.
Walking difficulty: easy to moderate on Numfor, Biak, Nimokrang, Sorong area, Waigeo, and most of the time in the Snow Mountains, mixture of trails and roadside birding.
Some steep on arduous walks in the Snow and Arfak Mountains.
Maximum altitude on the tour is 3,400m in the Snow Mountains.
Expected number of species: 370-420 species.
Number of endemics and range-restricted species: 230-250 New Guinea endemics, including 50-55 West Papua endemics.
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